23/01/2012 by Russell.

Year of the Dragon – Tet

Finishing school early and on the road from Hai Phong to Chu Lai some 1,000km away by car was like doing the Top Gear (BBC tv) road trip in reverse. So Tom, Tam and myself set forth with the car all packed.

Leaving around 12.45pm, we left under cool grey clouds for Vinh, our target for an over night stop, about 300km away, a long drive.This took until 10pm at night with one pit stop for a sandwich. Clever Russell, handed duties to break the bread for a sandwich, went and nearly cut his thumb off with the sharp knife. Well tomato ketchup was as fresh as it ever would be for sandwiches.

Blood pouring out the locals administered first aid. First, tobacco was applied to the wound, still not sure why, but must have a chemical to stem the flow, sellotape to hold the tobacco in place until a plaster and liniment and iodine could be administered.

Hotel in Vinh for $7, sleep to the rumble of a disco somewhere in the night, up at 6.20 and off before 7am to Chu Lai. A long drive, a short pit top after 2 hours for a coffee and breakfast, a new dressing and a fuel stop.

Somewhere on this trip I have lost my glasses, I think it was at the mid morning fuel stop, my reading glasses have disappeared. I think it was at the petrol station where I took my hoodie off ready to drive.

I drove for about 5 hours non-stop, eating a ham sandwich as we went along. It is all steady, only supposed to do 80 kph, but squeezed some 100kph stretches into the drive as they slept.

A stop near a town to Doc Mieu, the first thing we noticed was the temperature, a comfortable 28 degrees, a place where I got a new pair of glasses. No opticians here, just a market stall, which after determining I was +2, lenses were ground down to fit a pair of D&G frames, all for 350,000 VND, $17 (£12), they fit and I can read, not as good as my prescription glasses, but hey I am able to read!

Oh and a pair of sunglasses for $6 or $7.

The AH1 is the main road from North to South, and at Hue it turned into Central Drive, Wingerworth, for about 20km. The road pitched and rolled the car from left to right on the road, it had more pockmarks than a kid with acne.

Finally, we were on the last stages of the journey, into Da Nang to pick up children, sister-in-law, and to Tam Ky for food and to leave Tom with Tam of Tam ky.

Da Nang had changed in the last 3 months since I ws there, a new shopping mall, market and looking like a city on the up.

Arriving in Tam Ky, was the first time Tom met the woman of his dreams (?). She grabbed him as if it was a trolley dash at the supermarket.

We ate and made the final 20km home to Chu Lai, around 10pm. An estimated journey time of around 20 hours on the road, door to door.

Days ticked by until new years eve on Sunday. In the meantime we visited relatives and the graves for worship in Tam Ky. At the graves we pray and burn clothes and money so their spirits too can have new clothes for new year. But it was unfortunate vagabonds roam the site, offering their services to clean the headstones of the dead. If you don’t offer a tip to the 15 or so kids who follow you, then the likelihood is the grave will be damaged. Even young men were here. Shame for this is something the Vietnamese revere, they respect their dead ancestors here, and new year is part of remembering the dead ancestors.

To cap all this off, couldn’t get to see City/Tottenham or United/Arsenal live on tv. Had th wrong channels, BBC Radio five live cut off as the game kicked off because of broadcasting rights, couldn’t get an internet feed..so was reduced to web text. Good result for the Reds, 2-1, bring on Liverpool on Saturday.

Chuc Mung Nam Moi (happy new year) the year of the Dragon

Posted in tet, Tam, Vietnam, me, Tom | Print | 1 Comment »

14/01/2012 by Russell.

Posted in Uncategorised | Print | No Comments »

13/01/2012 by Russell.

Just to let you all know, the roads are quite simply dangerous.

My house mate and work colleague was coming home by motorbike and had to see a very unfortunate event.

At the corner with the two lane highway (we all use), as always every evening 26 wheeler lorries are heading to the port for their next container pick-up, and on this occasion, the lorry picked up another passsenger it didn’t really want.  A motorbike driver was instantly crushed to death.  Now deaths here are not uncommon on the roads, over 10,000 die each year in Vietnam (UK around 3,000 deaths)

Deaths like this are avoidable, first of all motorbike riders and car drivers DO NOT LOOK when entering a main road or any road, therefore crashes are going to happen, hence this is probably what happened here.  I would also emphasize the truck was probably doing under 30 kph (20 mph) due to traffic and the road conditions.

Secondly, my friend had to drive past the corpse, he could see everything, the body was not even covered by the police. Awful.

This could all be avoided by stronger road safety and greater road discipline, for example a give way sign ot two.  Kids are the same the on their bicycles, riding 3 or 4 abreast on main roads, no-one looks over their shoulders before performing any manouevre.  Bring the British police, any European police force out here for a tv documentary, it would make interesting viewing.  They would not know where to start.

You need wits, concentration and an attitude to not let anyone use your road space.  Particularly the kids on bicycles and some motorbike riders just ignore red lights…just go and ride on without thinking for safety or traffic flow… or that their might be someone coming round a corner.  It is only a matter of time before the grim reaper strikes and its too late.

My work collegue saw a girl some years ago wobble off her bike whilst waiting at traffic lights with 2 other girls…yup as she fell she was decapitated by a lorry

source:http://images.wikia.com/villains/images/f/f0/Reaper.jpg

Posted in Alan, hai Phong, Vietnam | Print | No Comments »

05/01/2012 by Russell.

Christmas and Into 2012 with a quiet night…

Christmas came and went very quickly, luckily Christmas fell over the weekend, otherwise it would have work everyday at the schools here.

Fortunately, we three wise comrades (Tom, Tam, and me) set off for Ninh Binh very early Christmas eve, we set of for the 7.30am bus. Arriving at 7.23am, only to discover the erstwhile bus driver had decided to head off before 7.30am…I shouted, I hissed and booed at the woman behind the counter, she looked back with a shrug as if to say its our fault, no apology for the driver leaving early, well we are in pantomime season. We even took my huge Christmas cake with us on the journey in a box, presented to me by my students at Tran Phu, it was beautifully decorated.

Undeterred, Tam enquired where another bus could be caught, and so we had a 10 minute trek to another street, only this time it was to be 2 buses for out 100km journey.

At least we were heading out of Hai Phong for a short break. 3 hours later we were off the bus, being tapped up by a moto driver for a hotel from $3 a night. Off we followed the salesman on his moto for a quarter of a mile walking at a brisk pace. No snow, no icicles, no Widow Twanky, just another lookalike city in Vietnam.

Our hotel down a side street was full of Europeans, how did they find this place, the new Queen Hotel? After a quick break, we decided to head off with a hired driver to sea the wonders of Ninh Binh.

First stop a historic King Le(surname) Emperors Palace site, full of school children on day trips and tourists in the cool but clear blue skies, it had a chill in the air, which made me think of Christmasses past. I of course was the centre of attention with my floppy Father Christmas hat and had to pose for photographs with the locals.

Lunch was not befitting Scrooge, very expensive, so much so Scrooge would have choked on the soup alone, costing $12 and the goat meat costing a similar amount, boy did Christmas arrive all in one day for the restaurant owner.

Following a hearty lunch we took to the peace and quiet of the waters, a boat rowed by a woman (they do all the manual work here) she rowed away with her feet like a proper Santa’s helper. The tour took in 9 caves, on the clearest water amongst limestone outcrops (like Ha Long Bay). Very tranquil and felt the peace and quiet of Christmas and the Christian spirit of Jesus on the 2 hour trip. Peaceful in December, perhaps rather more busy in Summer, but you have to make the effort to get to Ninh Binh, it is not many people’s itineries who visit Vietnam, but it soon will be.

After this trip, rather cream crackered, but more waters to float on and hills to climb, ancient temples to see, but the clock was ticking. We took another baot trip, before we retired back to the hotel for a short nap and sharing a Christmas drink with the hotel’s proprierters…what was missing was mince pies, sherry, Slade, Band Aid, but there was soccer on tv…you can’t escape the Premiership reruns out here.

Christmas eve was further enjoyed with a short walk to the Catholic church nearby. It was very busy with a huge screen showing some Catholic dignatory on the screen, beautiful lights, a tree and everyone semed to want to see, the whole town of Ninh Binh on moto’s had turned up..but did they know it was more than Father Christmas? It was a religious festival? who is Jesus? We had an little BBQ at our table for warmth and cooked pork and beef for dinner.

Christmas Day and we were off to Cuc Phuong National Park, some 60km away. An early Breakfast, and a driver for another $25.

Upon arrival we took a hike to the 1,000 year old tree, Tam in flip flops, me and Tom in regular footwear and we were accompanied by German George on our visit.

In the afternoon after a visit to the Monkey sanctuary, funded by many leading Zoo’s we headed back to Ninh Binh and our 3 hour journey.

Boxing day – normal working day, teaching, but, the week ahd a little surprise in store. I had been giving private lessons to Viinh (22yrs Old) who was leaving for the UK to do a Masters course at Birmingham University. His parents treated Tam and I to a slap up meal (well that’s what you used read in the Sparky comic, cica 1970’s)

we had 4 Lobster (expensive), Hai Sam (soup – translated to sea cucumber) ($400 a kilogram), wine a bottle of 12 year old Chivas regal whisky…in other words the works, all very delicious…so I did get a Christmas dinner of sorts.

The new year….passed off with Tom, his woman of the hour, her friend and Vinh and his wife (our landlord), we scoffed some crab and soup -Karaoke, and a roof top cafe for midnight….no Big Ben, no balloons, streamers, or party music, just techno pop, and when the moment arrived, the DJ played ‘Happy New Year’ a tchno version of Abba’s song…a few quick steps on the dance floor and off to bed.

New Years Day? Well you go to a wedding of course….off we three trotted to a wedding, drank some beer, karaoke and ate some more food.

And so what does 2011 leave behind?

Some recent sad losses?, Harry Morgan (aka Sherman Potter in M*A*S*H), Gary Speed (why?), Colonel Gadaffi, Osama Bin Laden, Kim jung Il, Jane Russell, Joe Frazier, Neil Young (MCFC scorer of FA cup winning goal 1969), Michael Jackson, Clarence Clemons (E street Band), Russian Ice Hockey team in September plane crash…and finally John, the husband of my great work colleague Freda Richardson also passed away..so many.

What will 2012 bring?

Hopefully the greatest sporting event - the Olympics - will be a triumph for London and Great Britain, pity I will not be a part of it, I really wanted to say I went to the stadium to watch at least one event, but its all too much, good luck to the ticket holders for an event to treasure.

A Man City league triumph? A Real Madrid Champions League win? Usain Bolt centre stage? An economic recovery or collapse of the Euro?

China government to buy into Apple? Terry Wogan to host Strictly come Dancing? Who knows and that is the beauty of the future..

A final Happy new year to Emily, Gregory, Phillip, Kirsten, ex-work colleagues Rob Fletcher, Geoff Nicholson, John Malamatenios, Anne Waring, not forgetting Basil and Pete and David Opperman…and Enid Skelhorn, inseperable part of my life many years ago..

Posted in Vietnam, clarence clemons, enid, Peter, Barry, Greg, Emily, Tom, Phillip | Print | No Comments »