30/07/2010 by Russell.

Delhi – first impressions

Arriving blurry eyed may not be the best thing, but in short Delhi is nothing less than a tip, a building site, a mess, inhabited by tooting motorised vehicles.

I am staying at a small hotel in the Bazaar area, the street is littered with trenches, bricks rubble, cows (yes), rickshaws, dogs sleeping, electricity wiring from which shops hang their wares, dust, heat. Its horrible. I even went to Connaught Place, a tad more upmarket and it is all the same, trenches, roadworks, and general mess. They say it’s for the Commonwealth Games, this amount of work will not be finished. Women do hard labour here, pick axes in hand to dig trenches, concrete in a bowl balanced on their heads to be used on site. I too have seen the plastic sheeting for a house on the pavements., just a level or two down from a simple shack, there are corrugated shacks here too.

The pavements here are littered with rubble, you walk in the road to the constant backdrop of cars m/cycles, taxis tooting there horns at you – not to tell you off but as a warning to say I am here.

However, had my washing done within hours upon arrival, 220 rupees, that’s around ｣3. The heat is stiffling, you sweat as soon as you hit pavement level, it is monsoon season, but it wont change the heat.

Overall, not impressed, Africa was far more civilised in structure and meritocracy, here anything goes, have been hussled already and have to redeem myself tomorrow. Have booked a Rhajastan trip through an agent at ridiculous fees – 250quid. In some respects it gets me going bt it is 3 times over the usual rate. Never again.

Help! its like that programme ‘Get me outta here’ in the jungle, except this one is different -a concrete jungle. Not a happy bunny. I did eat a veggie curry though which was my only food today, and was served aniseed and sugar to clear my palette afterwards, very good. I have found a McDonalds, will be off their tomorrow! Also have no toilet paper, so have treated myself some luxury for bathroom duties.

Time here is 10.20pm, UK it is 5.50pm, a 4 and a half hour difference, for SA its 3.5hrs behind. Goodnight.

Day 2

Off to the agent to claim some money back, they are very reluctant to do so, was there cajoling them for ｽ an hour, in the end I managed to get ｣50 back and left in a huff. Hate the place. I was so stupid. Just like every other person who passes their door. The guide books forewarn you about such deals, but they focus on the Railway station area, which I was aware of. I went to Connaught place like the sensible citizen seeking the official tourist office, and got hoodwinked.

I hate this place, everyone wants to make money out of you, auto rickshaw drives, cycle rickshaws, shop owners etc. Don’t come to India unless you are prepared to withstand this pressure. I can’t, have no-one to bounce my thoughts off and of course no-one to share rickshaw costs. These are a must to get around. The distances are great – in Delhi it can be up to 10km away from one tourist highlight to another.

I managed to get to India Gate, the national war memorial, of course this was under renovation for the Commonwealth Games – 69 days away. If you look at any pics, you will see that the city will still be a building site. I will describe this later.

From India Gate, I was of course hustled for a ride in a rickshaw by several men, one of whom was Rakesh, a bit of a saviour in some respects. He took me round Delhi (for a fee of course).

Monday is when national monuments are closed, so some parts were shut, but went to places like Gandhi’s house, but not inside because of closures, where he was assassinated, The Presidential Palace and government buildings, to Lodi Park, the Lakshmi Narayan temple, this is without even seeing Old Delhi etc..

Rakesh took me around to some craft houses too, carpets were beautiful, ｣500 delivered made of goats hair from Kashmir…beautiful. I have arranged with Rakesh to meet him upon my return to Delhi

The holes in the road are not for the fainthearted, they are seemingly digging up the whole of Delhi for the commonwealth games. The Bazaar area in Paharganj (where I stayed) is like a war strewn area. Half buildings, cattle, unmade road, holes in the ground, rubble, no pavements, just a dirt track mainly, and this is a major thoroughfare. Connaught Place is the same, imagine Trafalgar square with roadworks and the chaos this would bring.

The proposed boxing arena is a 40foot crater ( no exaggeration) the tennis courts next door are built but the stadium has no seating or courts etc, just a concrete hulk. There is less than 69 days to go. The work is being completed by hand, not huge chunks of machinery are being used.

Day 3 – off to Agra (Taj Mahal)

Train departs at 8.40am, up at 7 to meet Rakesh to get to the station. He is an enormous help to get me to the right platform, the train is huge – say 15carriages – and I have a reserved seat. Beforehand Rakesh tells me of the scams of thieves, who will be eyeing me up, looking at me and even trading me to other thieves to see if they can pick my pocket somehow, get my luggage etc. I sat on the train like a cowering cat in my bunk. Luckily I had an Indian family who wanted to sleep in my shared bunks, so no-one could prowl the corridor and see that I was on my own, and hence a target.

I had two packets of crisps and water for breakfast, ever mindful of what goes in has to be clean and well cooked, otherwise, I know I am going to suffer.

Arrival, not bad, amid the usual hustlers, but find the pre-paid rickshaw booth to get me to me hotel in some back of beyond place. The driver(s) of course were glad to take me round the sights. I had a day, so no alternative and they of course forewarned me of talking to people in the road to the entrance to the Taj Mahal.

I entered by the Southern gate, through a courtyard on a cloudy humid day, and yet as everyone will tell you, the Taj takes on its own luminance, and this is true even on a dull day. Though I had my own thoughts about the Taj Mahal beforehand, Lady Diana, its size, pictures in books etc, it is truly a building of great balance. It is as tall as it is wide, each aspect of the building with its miniarettes is stunning. Crowded with tourists from India to Korea, it still thralls the crowds, everyone must have their picture taken with it. It is like your first kiss a special moment in time you need to capture and recall in the future. The detail of the building is excellent and inlaid with many semi precious stones. I guess at some stage you will not be allowed to go inside, although presently this must be done barefooted.

Was I awe struck? Perhaps not, because we have seen so much of the buildings presence on tv, magazines etc, however, undoubtedly an iconic building surviving from the 17^th century and it really does have an aura about it. Pity about the entrance fee of 750 rupees ( locals it is 20 rupees)

Afterwards my driver whisked me off for my first food of the day at about 3pm, an indian restaurant, where I am sure he receives commission. From here it was to the other notable cultural visit in Aggra, the red fort. It is exactly what it says on the tin, red. Made from sandstone, it was the Mughal stronghold for many generations. It is a vast castle, larger than say Windsor or Bamborough castle, larger than Chenonceaux on the Loire. Many sections built over different periods, and of course you can see the Taj Mahal in the distance. It is still full of hawkers in the lead up to the entrance.

I was ready for bed, but no had to visit carpet (again) and jewellery crafts. Again commission related. The carpet was a magnificent specimen, of 100% wool, and behaved like a silk magic carpet ( if you know what is meant by this, where the trick of light makes the carpet look lighter or darker depending on the knapp of the wool). This was only ｣335 delivered. Even better than Delhi. How can you say no, when you know this is a true bargain? I did, only just. I did take a pic and have his address detail to get one delivered in the future.

Back to hotel, to get up at 3.45 am for a train at 5.10am.

Agra to Jaipur

Journey by train in a comfortable seat and carriage occupied by many Europeans, although not a word was spoken between us all.

This journey was a bit of a revelation, once daylight had arrived. What I can only describe is now typical of the place.

People think nothing of walking across railway lines to get to a train, I saw smartly dressed school children walking right next to the track to get to school (a major Health and Safety issue in itself). I saw children and men defecating next to the railway line, people washing in brown dirty water, and cleaning their teeth in nothing more than a dirty puddle. Cattle ambled everywhere as usual. Women just standing in fields on their own about 20m away from the next woman in colours so rich that your eyes are blinded by their intensity against the green canvas of India, I was left wondering if this was their toilet. Camels pulling trailers as you would with a horse. Monkeys running on a railway station canopy.

I arrived 20mins late at 9.50am – long distances are covered here. The usual greetings of offers of help, but managed to find a soldier to ask about pre-paid rickshaws, and had an altercation with an indian who kept interrupting, lost me cool there, but why don’t these people back off. There were 6 of these people hanging around me.

Had to get a new mobile, I have nobodies number now that I have lost my blackberry.

Hate this place, can’t wait to get out in August. Heat, humidity, clothes are filthy, food is spicy all the time, nothing plain for contrast, what do you eat? Have kept to potato dishes mainly for carbohydrate. Have got vitamin pills on the go, and use viral hand wipes and lotions all the time. I am not enamoured by the people on the make. I am too soft to say ‘no’ and need to haggle more, where is Greg when you need him?

29th July -

A bit better today, got my rickshaw driver from yesterday to take me to the Royal Palace in the Pink city (the ramparts/walls are pink)

again foreign visitors pay a high price to get in, but at least this was worth seeing, and even had the luxury of an audio tour around the palace.  A bit like any royal palace, costumes, paintings of family members, an old arsenal, carriages, but it is a splendid building.  It is a much more interactive and interseting place to look round than the iconic Taj Mahal, perhaps because there are many ornate and decorative aspects to the palace.  There are 2 large silver (guiness world record) water containers, standing about 4′ tall. They were used to carry water from India to the UK for King George 5ths coronation.  They are made from melted down coins.

The palace is still used todat by the royal family.  It has been beautifully kept and the coulours inside (not able to photograph) are all original with gold leaf etc.

From here it was over the road to the Observatory, ther were 5 such ones in India, they have sundials as large as houses here, accurate to within 2 seconds.  They can accurately line up the planets, the astrological signs are all present.  It is strange to think these were developed here 100 of years ago.

However, all the time you are reminded of the filth of India and conditions people work.

There is a ladypicking up garden refuse in the most beautiful clothes ever seen on a gardener, there is an old man breaking coal by hand and this is without even describing, pigs, cattle sleeping and eating in the streets. A dead pig lies abandoned, piglets in the street, goats and their young and men so thin to look at you are unsure of how they manage to stand on their feeble stilts (legs)

But within all this you come across hidden gems like the water palace, you can’t visit, but makes you think of the opulence of India in days gone by…

Taj Mahal

Bazaar st in Delhi

Me and my Taj souvenir

Amber Fort, looking down on Jaipur

Silver water container, Royal Palace, Jaipur  

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29/07/2010 by Russell.

Cape Town – top to bottom approach

If you have never had the good fortune to visit Cape Town, then it should be high on your priority list regardless of the cost of the flight. I am not able to recount the words of the many Alan Whickers’ and Judith Chalmers’ who have been here before me, but will try to give you a flavour of what delights lie in wait to those who follow these words of wisdom.

First off, before you arrive here, if you think this is an ordinary city with open top bus tours then, yes, they are to be found. Take the hop on hop off red and blue routes around the city and you can make it less tiring and also lots of fun too. However, I would suggest you do a quick fitness regime before coming here to enjoy an enriching experience of Cape Town and what it offers the visitor.

Here goes, if you are planning a visit then you must climb the mountain which dominates the surroundings, the cable car is easier, but less challenging. It towers about a 1,000 metres over the city – yes you can climb a kilometre. Take the Platteklip Gorge, it is straight up and will take about 2-2.5 hrs. We went up at first light, magnificent, with the expected reward being a hearty breakfast at the top. No such luck, the cable car wasn’t running – it was a true gale force at the top, hence no cafe open or other visitors. For a while there were only 2 of us up there. The climb down is just as ardous, about an hour and a half, but the sense of achievement is immense. You can see 60km away to the very end of Africa.

Lucky too because, although this was CT’s winter the weather was in the eighties fahrenheit during the week, however, as the week wore on the table was covered in its notorious table cloth, the cable cars were running though. So reason 1 - to be fit for the climb

Reason two is to take the ‘daytrippers.com’ tour to the Cape. It is 60 km away, so a car is required or this tour. It is excellent because you cycle the final 13kms to the Cape of Good Hope itself, is that not a fulfilling achievement too? It costs just over £50 for the full day including lunch, bike and entrance fee to the National park. The things you see are remarkable, visiting the Penguins on Boulders beach, seeing baboons in gardens of houses, Ostrich, dassies and if lucky like us - whales – incredible, and that is not even including the pleasure of cycling on the Cape to the iconic ‘ Cape of Good Hope’ sign, the most south westerly tip of Africa – awesome. Eat your heart out Rob Fletcher -it’s a trip made in heaven for you. It also include visiting Cape Point, which you can walk to from Cape of G hope, or ride in the mini bus.

Reason 3, is walk through Kirstenbosch botanical gardens, take the guide for an extra 40 rand (4 quid) and have a personal guide in a golf buggy round the park. A most satisfying tour for anyone, even if you are not interested in anything botanical, you can get there on the blue route bus, or a taxi or train. It is a designated world heritage site and lies at the foot of Table Mountain. I visited in winter, but it is still lovely to see. The garden is huge so need your energy levels to be good for this part too. A great cafe here at gate 1 too.

These sites are all safe -if that is a nagging thought. To put the record straight, you will be going to places black people (if you are put off coming because such stories about blacks and muggings) do not really frequent. You are not going to be hassled either. The waterfront is consumer paradise, whether beautiful hand made crafts or fashion boutiques like Louis Vitton, Paul Smith, etc or just a simple pharmacy. Restaurants abound here and are quite expensive, but that’s up to the individual. Fish and chips, burger bars and pizza places are available. But don’t miss the little malls with arts and crafts and the diamonds of course. Do not buy in the Victoria mall, go to ‘Diamonds of Africa’ in the clock tower mall, behind the Robben Island Ferry. They are most helpful and informative there.

Robben Island is a must for most people, it is a 3hr trip and sailings are dependent on the weather, I enjoyed it, but felt more could be done, you see Nelson’s cell, the garden and have a fantastic view of Table Mountain when you look to the mainland. Your guide is an ex-con. I couldn’t help but think of the envy these ex-cons must feel to prisoner 466/64 who is now seen as the world’s leading statesman. They go back to prison everyday, he sits in relative comfort and safety.

Black people do live in Cape Town, they are in and around you, but they will not be bothered with you, they are just making a living like you. They are most friendly and helpful, you are not going to find yourself off the beaten track and have your safety compromised. Townships are some distance away, read about District 6 and what the whites did there in the 60s.

What else? Long Street, Bo Kaap, District 6, museums, wine tours, there is so much more, as I said you just gotta to put money aside for Cape Town, it is a romantic and splendid city. Also you could stay in the excellent hostel – Zebra Crossing, I could see the table from the balcony at any time of day or night (in silhouette)

Oh, and the diamonds are reasonably priced if you know what to look for, so what price a point 32 carat diamond , rated as VS2 with a K/L colour?

Up at 6 for a long flight to Delhi on Saturday 24^th.

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29/07/2010 by Russell.

Goodbye Port Elizabeth, Hello Cape Town, and Cheerio to Hstd Road site

On my final days here in PE, and the World Cup is over. April seems such a long time ago when I arrived, full of expectation of what was to come, coaching, the footy and South Africa itself.

What we read in the papers in the UK or believe what townships are like, or the black people and society in general here, would be true if you are in the wrong place at the wrong time. This can be said of LA, Toxteth, a suburb of Paris, or any inner city estate around the world, except the difference being here is that there are literally thousands of such deprived estates here (townships), beyond the scope of your imagination. Each citizen is entitled to a one room house, and they are in all kinds of condition, in addition there are the wooden and tin shacks all around on waste ground.

The blacks and whites and coloureds all mix during the day and in the public spaces, such as malls, beaches, tourist spots etc, and there is nothing to fear. However, go to a township and walk the streets at night alone, then you are a fool. Common sense applies, but that all seems to be forgotten throughout the newspaper reports. Boris Johnson has been over here and recently wrote a good piece in the Telegraph. I have been in black neighbourhoods at night, I have walked with Buntu and his friends, but there is always safety in numbers and of course I am with black people. I have also gone from taxi to the door. All in all, the black people are most welcoming and want to meet you and shake you by the hand, they want conversation. I have even had one man say I was the first englishman he had ever spoken to or heard speak, a compliment indeed. If individuals like me and other white foreigners don’t go to the townships, how can the word spread of their plight or living conditions or their welcoming nature. Unemployment is grim here, 60-80%, and they stand on street corners looking for work, they act as car park attendants, they fill your car up with fuel, they run little market stalls, they sell ray ban sunglasses at traffic lights, anything to scratch a living. Yet they are mostly positive individuals, they know the political system isn’t the best here with money disappearing down more black holes to line the pockets of officials. However, as I knew I would, I love the black community, love their footy skills and their genuine kindness, and they have nothing to give back other than hospitality. There are many beautiful kind people here.

As for my soccer coaching, well it has all been a bit stop start and experiences have all been genuinely good, are there any decent players here? I have found 3, two 18 yr olds and a 13 yr old. Incredible, just like anywhere else, talent is easily spotted and as everywhere else is truly thin on the ground. There is a lot of milk and cream here, but the cream at the very top of the milk is very thin. Do they have a chance, none whatsoever, they need to come to England to get anywhere, and for that I don’t have the contacts anymore nor the funds to bring over. It is a shame, the young lad – Reeve – is exceptional, he could even use the wind to make his pass work, and he has fantastic temperment along with skill. Please let me take him home! The coaching has not been as expected, the schools were disruptive, the weather has cancelled sessions and the kids have not always been the same. To take this further for me I would have loved to coach a team. I have seen kids play in our tournaments during the world cup, and they would generally out pass and beat an equivalent age group of kids in England at 15-16 yrs old. The younger ones lack team play.

Is PE a great place? In truth it is an industrial town with car factories, tyre factories etc, a port and airport, it is a working town, and yet unemployment is still high. There is talk of moving the docks and using the existing site as a tourist hub with a marina, light years away I guess. The Boardwalk area is very safe and westernised, a small mall, casino, hotels etc and a beach. But because of PE’s size it is about 6-7 km away, and is not walkable, another taxi ride for anything from 60rand to 100rand (｣6 to ｣10). Because I have been here so long, I have my own driver now – Chris, very economic. The town centre is shabby and not a great architectural feast. But PE has opened my eyes to modern South Africa with Malls, cinemas, some excellent restaurants and bars are on the increase. If you ever come here eat at the ‘Butchers Bloc’ in Newton Park. Great food.

PE is like a little america, wide highways with robots (traffic lights), drive through MacDonalds, KFC’s and Nando’s. Even petrol stations have take away places, but they are not ‘fast food’ as we know it, you end up waiting, no good for the Westerners here, I guess many visitors for the world cup wondered why it takes so long – this is Africa, it is slow at times.

But PE is a gateway to many places, you can get along the garden route very easily and there are some spectacular places to visit, Plettenberg Bay, Storms River, Robberg peninsular, Knysna, etc and going towards Durban is the ‘wild coast’ Morgans Bay, Coffee Bay, Grahamstown, Mthata ( Mandela Museum) etc. If you arrived here the scenery is outstanding along with the Indian Ocean. Which was too cold for me to swim, but get up to Durban and it will be warm, remember it is winter here now.

What about me? For me it has been a time for reflection, yes of course I have thought about West Herts College and the impending move, but in truth it has only been a little thought..the trip so far has enabled me to de-stress (is that a word?) and I think in hindsight it was the right decision, to change my perspective and get out of the maelstrom of the College. I am also of the opinion that I will have to return here, I have also considered my next moves and would like to start a charity to utilise cast off sports equipment. There is none here, kids in bare feet, or at best socks, no shorts or jerseys. Think of all the boots and kit which is thrown away in the UK, it can have a use here.

I am seeing the world with a new pair of eyes and am grateful for that, my brain is uncluttered for the first time and it is a good feeling.

Trivia:

• MacDonalds is not highly visible, only 2 here I know of. KFC and Nando’s beat them hands down

• There are 3 multiplex cinemas in town

• Woolworths (yes) is like Marks and Spencer’s

• Round-a-bouts are ‘circles’

• Sun goes down about 5.30pm and rises about 7am (yes its like our winter for daylight)

• The wind can be here for days, and the sun can be out without a cloud for days

• When it rains, stay indoors

• There is no such thing as central heating

• Coloured is not a derogatory term here, just a description

• Water is safe to drink

• Litter is all over the townships, they don’t have refuse collection like we do

• Re-cycling is very limited

• Castle lager is not exceptional, palatable to many though

• Wimpy is everywhere

• I have seen, Old Mk1 Cortinas, Mini’s, MGBs, Mk1 Ford Escort, Morris Minor, etc, many cars we have given up on long ago are still running

• You need a car to get around, it is a big country.

• Petrol is about 80p a litre

But just as I listen to Monty Pythons ‘Bright Side of Life’ I think of the optimism amongst the black community despite the cards they have been dealt.

I hope the move to the new WHC campus goes OK, but I hear of redundancies, more off putting news of the world I left in April.

Monday takes me to Cape Town, an hours flight away….

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